Surfing is the sport of riding water waves, accomplished using various forms of equipment -surfboards, inflated mats, canoes, sailboats - or no equipment in body surfing except for perhaps fins (Kelly, 1973). The primary objective in surfing is to balance the force of gravity against the advancing wave profile. Surfing is practiced on several types of waves. Ocean swell and sea waves are the most common types that are surfed, but waves made by mechanical means, boat wakes, and tidal bores are also used for surfing. The most desirable form for surfing is to ride a breaking wave in a region between the broken portion and the unbroken portion of the wave crest: in some forms of surfing, nonbroken waves or broken waves are ridden (Walker, 1974).
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